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The ortolan songbird is a force-feeding delicacy that was prized in France until it was banned from restaurant menus in 1999. The ortalan bunting was not only overhunted in France, but the preparation of the dish is considered torturous and cruel. The ortolan songbird eats constantly when it is put in the dark, so French chefs place it in a box with millet until it is overly fattened. The tiny bird is then drowned in brandy and consumed in a single steaming mouthful –head, bones, and body. “It is enveloped in fat that tastes subtly like hazelnut,” says chef Michel Guerard. Before devouring the ortalan the eater puts a white napkin over his head to conceal the act.
